For 916 years
it was a church, then a mosque for 481 years, and since
1935 has been a museum. Thought to have been constructed
by Emperor Konstantinos I (324 – 337) it was burned down
during a revolt. Rebuilt by Emperor Theodosium II, it was
opened for worship in 415 and once again was burned to the
ground, during the Nika revolts of 532.
Emperor Iustanianus
(527 – 565) wanted to construct something even bigger than
the original two and appointed architects Isidoros from
Miletos, and Anthemios from Tralles to build the Hagia Sophia
which still stands. Columns, heads, marble and coloured
stones were imported to Istanbul from ancient cities in
Anatolia for this purpose.
The construction
began on 23 December 532, and was completed exactly five
years later. The main, central section measured 100m x 70m,
covered with a 55m high dome which was a mammoth 30m in
diameter – appearing to be a great feat of design. The mosaics
are of great importance, and the oldest ones are dominated
by geometric and plant motifs decorated with gold.
The worst desecration
of the church was in 1204, ransacked by Catholic soldiers
during the Fourth Crusade. In 1453, after a failure of the
Byzantine Empire to fend off the Turks, Mehmet the Conqueror
captured the city an converted it into a mosque. It was
repaired several times, and Islamic ornamentation added,
for example an extract of the Koran by calligrapher Izzet
Efendi inscribed on the dome. The other reminders of its
previous status as a mosque include huge wooden plaques
bearing the names of Allah, the Prophet Mohammed and the
first four caliphs.
The marble and
mosaics remain the most interesting aspects today. The columns
supporting the gallery are made from antique marble, and
in the western gallery is the green marble which marks the
position of the throne of the Empress. The impressive figurative
mosaics include Virgin and Child flanked by two emperors,
dating back to the late 10th century, and one depicting
Christ, the Virgin, and St John the Baptists. Even though
there is partial damage, the haunting images on their faces
remain as strong as ever
SULEYMANIYE
MOSQUE:
Suleymaniye,
rather than a mosque, is an important historical symbol
for the Turks. It unites the architecht Sinan with Suleyman
the Magnificient, one representing the best of the arts
and the other most powerful of political strength.
Like other works
of the time, Suleymaniye is not only a mosque but a huge
compound. It is a work which typifies the Ottoman Empire
at its peak. Its name, Suleymaniye, derives from the builder's
name, Kanuni Sultan Suleyman (Lawgiver), Sultan Suleyman
I the Magnificent. The architect was the greatest of Ottoman
architects, the incomparable Sinan.
The Suleymaniye
mosque was built between 1550-1557. A spacious courtyard
surrounds the mosque. Similar to the Sultan Ahmet Mosque,
there is another inner courtyard surrounded by porticos
with 28 domes supported by 24 columns. This courtyard is
a little smaller than the main building. In the middle is
located a sadirvan. In the four corners of the inner courtyard
stand four minarets having a total of ten serefes.
The interior
of the mosque is rectangular in plan, 61 m / 200 ft in width
and 70 m / 230 ft in length. The main section is covered
by a huge dome with a diameter of 27.5 m / 90 ft and a height
of 47 m / 154 ft. The dome is held by four piers and supported
by two semi-domes in the E and W. The transition to the
main dome is provided by pendentives.
The acoustics
were one of the distinctive features of the building which
were achieved by placing 64 pots in different places in
the walls and the floor. Except for those above the mihrab,
the stained glass is not original. When the mosque was built
there were 4,000 oil candles, the smoke from which could
have endangered the paintings on the walls. The architect
avoided this, however by creating a system for the circulation
of air inside the building. Sultan Suleyman and Sinan are
buried in their tombs in the Suleymaniye complex.
BLUE
MOSQUE (SULTAN AHMET CAMISI):
Built
by Sultan Ahmet I as a part of a large complex, among the
Turkish people it is called Sultan Ahmet Mosque. However,
tourists fascinated by the beautiful blue tiles always remember
it as the Blue Mosque. The complex consisted of a mosque,
tombs, medreses, fountains, a health center, kitchens, shops,
a bath, rooms, houses and storehouses.
TILED
PAVILLION (ÇÝNÝLÝ KÖÞK):
The
oldest secular building in Istanbul, was constructed as
a mansion in 1472. It was a type of grandstand from which
the Sultan would sit and watch wrestling or polo, and its
interior is beautifully decorated with Selcuk art. It now
houses the Museum of Turkish Ceramics, containing fine example
of 16th century tiles from Iznik, as well as other renowned
examples of art and pottery from Selcuk and Ottoman times.
HAGIA
EIRENE (AYA IRINI):
Hagia
Eirene ranks as the first church built in Istanbul. It was
commissioned by Constantine in the 4th century, and Justinian
later had it restored. The building reputedly stands on
the site of a pre-Christian temple. The church of Hagia
Eirene was never converted into a mosque. Since, however,
it stood within the enclosure of the Saray and next to the
barracks of the Janissaries it served for a long time as
an arsenal. In 1846 it became a Museum of Antiquities and
in 1874 a Military Museum. In 1946 the collections of armaments
were removed and archaeological excavations were begun.
Remains of two ancient temples, dedicated to Apollo and
Aphrodite, have been discovered within and around the church.
It’s now a concert hall.
MUSEUM
OF TURKISH & ISLAMIC ART:
Built
in 1524 by Ýbrahim Pasha, the Grand Vizier to Suleyman the
Magnificent, it was originally a palace and the grandest
private residences in the Ottoman Empire – and one of the
few which have survived. Some of it, however, was destroyed
and rebuilt in 1843.
Now home to the
museum, this is considered one of the finest collections
of Islamic art in the world, with a superb display of ceramics,
metalwork, miniatures, calligraphy and textiles, as well
as some of the oldest carpets in the world. Equally as impressive
is the grace of the building, with the central courtyard
giving something of an insight into the atmosphere of the
residence.
Opposite is the
Great Hall, which houses a collection of Turkish carpets,
with exquisite antique carpets and kilims and one of the
finest collections in the world, the oldest exhibit dating
back to 13th century.
BASILICA
CISTERN (YEREBATAN SARNICI):
Nearby Hagia Sophia is the 6th century Byzantine underground
Basilica cistern, with 335 massive Corinthian columns supporting
the immense chamber’s fine brick vaulting. This is one of
several cisterns buried into the city’s foundations, and
the first to have been excavated and renovated. Thought
to have been built in the 4th century by the emperor Constantine,
then enlarged two centuries later, it was supplied with
water from Belgrade Forest, and supplied it to the Great
Palace and Topkapi Palace.
It fell into
disuse and was then restored in 1987 with the mud and water
removed and narrow raised pathways built to provide easy
access for visitors. It is the largest covered cistern in
the city, measuring 140 by 70 metres.
KARIYE
MUSEUM:
This
is actually Kariye Mosque, once the 11th century church
of St. Saviour in Chora, is considered to be the most important
Byzantine monument in Istanbul, after Hagia Sophia. Whilst
unremarkable in its architecture, the interior walls are
decorated with superb 14th century mosaics. Illustrating
scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, these
brilliantly colored paintings embody the vigour of Byzantine
art. The restored wooden houses in the surrounding area
are a good place for relaxation and refreshment.
The church was
probably built in the early 12th century, of which only
the nave and central apse remain. Theodore Metochites rebuilt
it between 1316 and 1321, the same years from which the
mosaics and frescoes date, which depict the life of Christ
in picture-book fashion. There is a series of mosaics in
the form of devotional panels in the narthexes, the theme
of which is reflected in the frescoes in the nave and funerary
chapel.
MILITARY
MUSEUM:
Highlight of this museum is definitely the Mehter
Takimi, the Ottoman military band, which performs every
afternoon between 15.00 – 16.00. It also has a good collection
of Ottoman military memorabilia, like the cotton and silk
tents used by the sultans at war, and armour and weaponry
like heavily decorated jambiyah daggers.
The band, which originated in 1289, became an institution
which came to symbolise the power and independence of the
Ottoman empire, and these musicians, who were janissaries,
always accompanied the Sultans into battle. But quite apart
from their benefit on the battlefield, they came to create
new musical styles in Europe, and even influencing Mozart
and Beethoven.
SADBERK MUSEUM:
Up the Bosphorus and shortly before Sariyer, the collection
of an Armenian civil servant fills two charming 19th century
wooden villas. The larger of the two villas belonged to
the Armenian, who became a politician and died in the great
Beyoglu fire of 1922. His collection was put together in
memory of Sadberk Hanim, wife of millionaire businessman
Vehbi Koc.
A private museum
which originally displayed only Turkish decorative arts,
was recently expanded to include a new collection of archeological
exhibits. This is the oldest section, and includes sixth-millenium
BC mother goddesses. In the ethnography section, there are
maternity and circumcision beds, clothing and jewellery.
TOPKAPI
PALACE:
One of
the most astounding and popular places to visit in Istanbul
is Topkapi Palace, the symbolic and political centre of
the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19th centuries.
It stands on the tip of land where the Golden Horn, the
Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus come together, and is a
maze of buildings centered around a series of courtyards,
typical of Islamic tradition. Such is the complexity of
each building, it will take many hours in order to be explored
efficiently.
It was built
between 1466 and 1478, a couple of years before the death
of Fatih. Unlike any European Palace, its architecture is
predominantly Middle Eastern in character. The initial construction
was Cinili Mansion, a Glass Palace finished in 1472, and
the imposing main gate facing Sultanahmet, Bab-I Humayun,
and the Palace ramparts were completed in 1478.
There were originally
750 residents of the Palace, during Fatih’s period, which
became drastically more congested reaching 5000 during normal
days and 10,000 during festivals. Extensions had to be built,
and the harem was completed in 1595 during the third Sultan
Murad’s era, after which the harem residents were moved
in from the palace at Beyazit, with a total of 474 concubines.
Special tours of the Harem are available. The Harem, literally
meaning “forbidden” in Arabic, was the suite of apartments
in the palace belonging to the wives, concubines and children
of the head of the household.
Around the Harem
were the Circumcision Room, the apartments of the Chief
Black Eunuch, and apartments of the sultan – in total over
400 rooms. Other highlights in the Palace are the Spoonmaker’s
Diamond (the fourth largest diamond in the world), the Topkapi
Dagger, (a gift from Mahmut I), a vast collection of paintings
and miniatures, and the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle (including
a footprint, a tooth and a hair of the Prophet Mohammed).
GRAND
BAZAAR (KAPALI CARSI):
During the Byzantine period the area of the Grand Bazaar
was a trade center. After the Turkish conquest, two bedestens
which formed the essence of today's Grand Bazaar were built
between 1455-1461 by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in an attempt
to enrich the economic life in the city. Later on as people
needed more place for their trade, they also added parts
outside these bedestens. In time the Grand Bazaar was formed.
Throughout the
Ottoman period, the bazaar underwent earthquakes and fires
and was restored several times.
Today, shops
selling the same kind of merchandise tend to be congregated
in their own streets or in hans as the original Ottoman
system. In addition to two bedestens there are also 13 hans
in the Grand Bazaar.
With 18 entrances
and more than four thousand shops it is one of the greatest
markets in the world. The atmosphere of the Grand Bazaar
is very interesting for tourists and has consequently become
a very popular place for foreign visitors.
It is open during
working hours on weekdays, closing earlier on Saturdays,
while on Sundays and religious holidays it is closed.
EGYPTIAN
BAZAAR (MISIR CARSISI):
It was
built in 1664 as a part of the Yeni Cami complex which is
located next to it. Misir in Turkish means Egypt and it
is called the Egyptian Bazaar because the shopkeepers used
to sell spices and herbs which were brought from or through
Egypt. During the Ottoman period it was known as a place
where shops sold only spices. Today there are only a few
spice and herb specialists. The rest sell dried fruit, borek,
basket work, jewelry, haberdashery, drapery and suchlike.
The bazaar has
an "L" shape with six gates. Similar to the Grand
Bazaar, it is open on weekdays and only half a day on Saturdays.
DOLMABAHCE
PALACE:
Built in
the reign of Sultan I Abdulmecit during the 19th century,
this over-ornate palace lies along the European coast of
the Bosphorus. Dolmabahce Palace was constructed between
1843 and 1856, mixing different European artistic influences
and built by Abdulmecit’s architect, Karabet Balya. It was
built over three levels, and symmetrically planned, with
285 chambers and 43 halls. It has a 600m long pier along
the bosphorus, with two huge monumental gates. The palace
is surrounded by well-maintained and immaculate gardens,
with an immense 56-columned greeting hall, with 750 lights
illuminated from 4.5 tonnes of Bohemian chandelier. The
entrance was used for meeting and greeting Sultans, and
opposite the ceremonial hall was the harem. The interior
decoration, furniture, silk carpets and curtains all remain
with little defect.
The palace has
a level of luxury not present in most other palaces, with
walls and ceilings decorated with gold, and European art
from the period. Top quality silk and wool carpets, southeast
Asian hand-made artifacts, and crystal candlesticks adorn
every room. The men’s hamam (public bath) is adorned with
alabaster marble, and the harem also encloses the Sultan’s
bedrooms and the women and servants’ divisions. One of the
highlights is the throne room, which stands at an amazing
36-metres high – almost twice the height of the rest of
the rooms. The east wing is home to the Museum of Fine Arts.
CIRAGAN
PALACE:
The most
picturesque spots along the Bosphorus and Golden Horn were
reserved for the palaces and mansions for the Sultans, and
other important dignitaries, most of which have now gone.
This huge palace was constructed by architect Serkis Balyan
in 1871, as appointed by Sultan Abdul Aziz, from the ruins
of the old palace.
The interior
was rebuilt, at a cost of four million gold coins, beginning
with covering the ceiling with wood and the walls with marble.
The rooms were decorated with rare carpets, furniture, gold
and silver. The sides of the building were decorated with
coloured marble, and monumental gates connected it to Yildiz
Palace, via a bridge, which is how the harem women went
between the two, in total privacy.
It briefly housed
the Turkish Parliament from 1908 to 1910, but was destroyed
by a fire two years later, and was only rebuilt in 1991.
Now, it is Istanbul’s premier luxury hotel, and has retained
something of its former glory.
BEYLERBEYI
PALACE:
Beylerbeyi, in which the Asian Tower of Bosphorus Bridge
was constructed, is a beautiful district allotted for palaces
since the Byzantium era. Sultan Abdulaziz built the Palace,
to replace the older, wooden palace, between 1861 and 1865.
Eastern and Turkish motifs were used with Western design
elements, on the sides and for internal decoration, and
the atmosphere is something resembling that of Dolmabahce
Palace.
The building
comprises of three floors, and contains 26 rooms and six
halls, which includes the harem and men's greeting rooms.
The interior is decorated with Bohemian chandeliers, valuable
tiles and ceramic vases. Silver-edged furniture and luxurious
carpets add something to the beauty, and even till today
the authentic furniture, carpets, curtains and other property
have been well preserved.
A huge pool,
terraces and stables, face the back cliff. A road and tunnel,
used until 1970, passed under the palace garden and were
used by the most distinguished foreign dignitaries when
visiting the palace.
YILDIZ
PARK & PALACE:
This vast park consists of mansions, gardens and lakes,
the whole area surrounded by high walls, and all set in
a superb hillside location. Popular at weekends and holidays
with locals, it offers one of the few green areas within
the city centre, and is a great place for walking, relaxing
and eating. There is a steep walk up the hill from Ciragan
Caddesi up to the first pavilion, but rewards are cooling
breezes and sweeping views of the Bosphorus.
It was the centre
of the Ottoman Empire for 30 years, during the reign of
Abdulhamid II, and the second largest palace in Istanbul.
Its main structure, Yildiz Palace, was built in the old
Ottoman style and the pavilions which are dotted around
the park were transformed into a power base. The most important
remaining building is Sale Koske, where receptions were
held, and is the largest and most ornate and reveals the
luxury in which the sultans lived and entertained. The first
section was modelled on a Swiss Chalet, the second two completed
in the late 19th century.
Some of the mansions
are undergoing restoration, but Sale is open for visitors,
and two have terraces serving food and drinks. Further along
the path is a State museum, the Belediye Sehir Muzesi, and
Yildiz Sarayi Theatre.
MAIDEN’S TOWER (KIZ KULESI):
Considered to be symbolic of Istanbul, this tiny tower was
established on a small island at the southern entrance of
the Bosphorus. In the past, it was used as a watchtower
and a lighthouse. It’s now a touristic fascility. Western
sources describe this as Leander’s Tower, who was drowned
while swimming, to reach his lover Hera. Another story suggests
that it was a tower where an emperor’s daughter put her
there for security, having dreamt that she would be bitten
by a snake.
GALATA TOWER:
The tower was built by the Genoese in 1348, during their
occupation of the area, primarily to prevent attacks. Originally
known as the Tower of Christ, it stood above the fortification
surrounding the Genoese city-state. There is a spiral rock
staircase which ascends to the top viewing platform, which
today offers visitors spectacular 360 degree panorama of
the entire city. The tower was restored in 1967, and an
elevator was installed to offer a less tiring alternative
to the steep climb. There is also a restaurant on the top
floor.
BEYAZIT TOWER:
Within the grounds of the central building of Istanbul’s
University (formerly the palace of Mehmet the Conqueror)
this wooden tower was built for fire watchers, and remains
a landmark throughout the city. Mahmud II demolished it
in order to construct a better one, and according to the
inscription, he ordered a rock-filled tower in 1828 to be
built by the Ministry of Defense. The monument is 50m high,
and from the upper landing, accessible via wooden staircase,
offers a superb overview of the city
Other Places of Interest in Istanbul
With
more time in Istanbul the following places are worth visiting
or experiencing:
• Archeological
Museum of Istanbul in the old city, near the Topkapi Palace,
• Mihrimah Sultan Camisi (Mosque), in Edirnekapi,
• Nostalgia at French writer Pierre Loti’s (1850-1923) favorite
cafe in Eyup; Cafe Pierre Loti,
• Pera Palas Hotel, a place where Agatha Christie and many
other celebrities have stayed,
• Walk from Taksim Square into Istiklal Street (Beyoglu),
a pedestrian street with an old tram line, old buildings,
modern shops and cinemas,
• A typical local dinner in one of the restaurants in Cicek
Pasaji (Flower Passage), also on the Istiklal street,
• A typical local fish dinner in one of many restaurants
in Kumkapi; gypsies make music too,
• Mehter (Military) Band Concert at the Military Museum
in Harbiye,
• Ortakoy at the base of the Bosphorus Bridge on the European
side. An array of cafe-bars in the old narrow lanes. Open
air craft market stalls on Sundays.
• Experience a Turkish Hamam; Galatasaray Hamami (Istiklal
St.), Cagaloglu Hamami (Yerebatan St.)
